July 20 - 23, 2002 Trip
We left Portland in the morning on July 20, 2002 and headed for the coast on Hwy 26. The first stop was Cannon Beach.
From there, we traveled south on Hwy 101 to Nehalem and the Nehalem Bay Winery (34965 Hwy 53, Nehalem OR). It has been in the wine business for about 25 years. After tasting some of their selections, I decided on the Chardonnay, the Cranpere (a white table wine with Cranberry Juice), and the Gewurztraminer.
The next stop was the small community of Garibaldi. There we stopped at the Bayfront Bakery (302 Garibaldi Ave) where we indulged in a couple of very tasty fruit fritters!
Further south we arrived in the city of Tillamook. There we went to the Tillamook Creamery (4175 Hwy 101 N, Tillamook OR), the home of Tillamook Cheeses and Blue Heron French Cheese Co (2001 Blue Heron Drive, Tillamook OR).
At the Tillamook Creamery, you can view the process of cheese making and packaging. It has a cafe and a gift store also. I watched the cheese making once many years ago and couldn't eat cheese for about 6 months... so I didn't go see it this time because I really like cheeses!!
The Blue Heron has been in business about 23 years now and has an excellent selection of gourmet foods, wines, gifts, fresh baked bread and homemade soups and salads. I did sample the Rhubarb wine.... it was icky! LOL go figure! But the sample of the Jesse James BBQ sauce and the "Cryin' over Cayenne" dip were just wonderful! I bought one of each of those!
After tasting a bit of this and that at both cheese factories and purchasing a few items, we continued on our trek south on Hwy 101. Our first diversion from the main highway was on the 40 mile, 3 Capes Loop Scenic Road. On this scenic drive are 3 capes (hence the name, duh!) and the town of BayOcean... well, actually it is a ghost town.... it was swallowed up by the ocean 35 - 55 years ago so all that is there is a bunch of water and a sign!
Scenery along the drive:
The Cape Meares Light was constructed in 1890 and is just sourth of Tillamook Bay. It is a stubby, octagonal tower that is only 38 feet tall, but sits on the edge of a towering 200 ft cliff above the ocean. Illuminated in 1890, the light was decommissioned by the Coast Guard in 1963 and replaced by a powerful beacon mounted on an ugly concrete blockhouse.
The lighthouse structure suffered severe vandalism in the following years, the keeper's house had to be destroyed and the four bullseyes from the First Order lens were stolen. Eventually, the light was turned over to the Oregon State Parks system. Over the years, 3 of the 4 bullseyes have been reocvered-- one in a drug raid in 1984, one returned to a local museum, and one anonymously left on the Asst Park Manager's front porch.
A 2 or 3 block walk from the Cape Meares Lighthouse is theOctopus tree. The Octopus tree is a sitka spruce that sends six huge trunks into the sky... however, we were both so cold from walking to and from the lighthouse (the wind was strong, bitter and freezing cold), that we decided to forego the tree viewing.
The scenic route then takes you on a winding drive that moves inland in spots and then to Cape Lookout.
Cape Kiwanda is the smallest of the three capes and is supposed to have the best "wave action". I managed to miss Haystack Rock #2 at Pacific City and Three Arch Rocks at Oceanside, as well as Cape Kiwanda by taking a shortcut back to Highway 101.
So we drove straight through to Newport and Nye Beach where we would be living for the next couple of nights and doing "day trips" in the daytime.
The Vikings Cottages (729 NW Coast St, Newport OR), where we rented a suite, actually turned out to be pretty nice and in a decent location. We were both pleasantly surprised!
The marine layer, early morning
After getting unpacked and just relaxing for alittle while, we ventured off to the south to see what could be seen!
South out of Newport we crossed the Yaquina Bay Bridge. This bridge is one of the five arched concrete coast spans built during the 1930's depression under the public works program set up under FDR to create jobs.
On the south end of the bridge is the Oregon Coast Aquarium (2821 SE Ferry Slip Rd) which was closed, of course, because it was after 6pm.
Just outside of the Aquarium was a shopping area called Aquarium Village also closed due to the hour, but very cute!
And we wandered down to the Historic Bayfront area of Newport. That place was packed with people and cars! It houses the famous Mo's clam chowder restaurant which had people waiting on the sidewalk to get inside to feast. Personally, if I wanted clam chowder, I would have walked across the street to Mo's Annex, which serves the same food but with less "ambiance"!
There are many touristy places to visit on Bayfront (Ripley's Believe it or not, the Royal Wax museum, and The Undersea Gardens to name a few), but I had already been to these places and Mom wasn't really interested in going to them.
So, after making a purchase of Salt Water Taffy, we left the Bayfront.
On the way home to the suite, we located the Nye Beach Historic District, which happened to be right down the road from our suite!
It wasn't big, but it was very busy. Both of the restaurants, Newport Chowder Bowl and Sandbar & Grill, appeared to be packed with people and parking was at a premium in the area. There are a variety of businesses in the area for gifts, clothes, coffee, ceramics, a vet, a bakery, a gallery and a couple of book stores. Nye Beach is one of the oldest communities on the Oregon Coast. As early as 1891, a boardwalk connected Nye Creek and the Newport Bayfront. The walkway was replaced by a road tow years later as Newport began to grow. Most of the cottages in the area were built in the prosperous years between 1910 and 1930. In 1902, Dr Minthorn (stepfather of President Herbert Hoover) built a sanitarium with hot sea water baths in the area. He donated the land for the public bath house (no longer there) in 1913.
Just to the north of the mainstreet and turnaround, out in the ocean, was a famous rock - Jump off Joe- which used to resemble a lady's boot. Not much remains of the crumbling sandstone arch, which collapsed in 1915.
The morning of July 21st, we headed up north on Hwy 101 to visit Lincoln City. Lincoln City, by the way, was voted the best kite flying location in North America by Kitelines Magazine. It also sits right on the 45th Parallel. The first stop, and the one farthest north, was to Devils Lake. Devil's Lake is a scenic 678 acre freshwater lake. Lengendary reports advise that soemthing strange happened one evening when the Siletz tribe's Chief Fleetfoot dispatched his warriors across its waters. As they crossed, the lakes' still, moonlit waters suddenly erupted into turmoil. Gigantic tentacles wrapped themselves about the frail canoe and they were pulled under the water. It is said that the occupants of a boat crossing the moon's reflection in the center of Devil's Lake will feel a strange chill of fear. Even today, festivals are held on the shores of the lake to pacify the spirit.
The D River Recreation Site offers easy access to the beach at the mouth of the "Worlds Shortest River", a 120 ft long stream that flows from Devil's lake.
We also visited "The Christmas Cottage" - lots of christmas ornaments and such!
Alder House III (glass blowing). Nice stuff, but pretty spendy in my opinion. Glass items are made right on the premises and they also give demonstrations of glass blowing. Located about 3/4 mi off Hwy 101 on Immonen Rd. The studio is open 3/15 through 11/30. It is Oregon's oldest glassblowing studio. It isn't the one that I visited some 20 yrs ago, so perhaps I had gone to Alder House I or II! But it was still neat to visit!
Apex II/Mossy Creek Pottery. Lots of pretty stuff here! Some was expensive, but not all of it. I bought a pretty vase of the less expensive type!
and The Factory Stores (1500 SE East Devils Lake Rd, Lincoln City OR) which house 65 designer and national brands stores.
We tried to find the Ghost Town of Kernville (there is a new and old Kernville.. or so I read!) I'm not sure we found the right location, but, I believe it had to be where there were tons of pilings etc in the river... but that was all that was left! Guess that qualifies as a "ghost town"!
We dined at The Spouting Horn for lunch in Depoe Bay and had a delightful Halibut and chips lunch.
The Spouting Horn is at the north end of the Depoe Bay Bridge, which is the smallest port in the United States and is across from the Depoe Bay Aquarium which is the 3rd oldest aquarium in the United States.
Depoe Bay itself is a very quaint little "town" with the ocean on one side and a variety of shops and eatery's on the other. Parking and the costs of their goods were at a premium!
Boiler Bay wasn't boiling at all when we saw it! It was pretty, but since the tide was out, there just wasn't alot of water splashing over the rocks! Boiler Bay was named for the boiler of the wood steam schooner JJ Marhoffer which burned at sea in the Spring of 1910. The Capt, his wife, and 21 crew members, who watched from lifeboats as the flaming ship crashed into the shore rocks and exploded, made it to shore with only one life lost. The rusty boiler can be seen at low tide.
We had planned on taking the Otter Crest Loop Scenic Route on the way south, but, it was closed due to a washout or slide or something so we settled for some photos from Rodea Point (at the beginning of the loop)
and got back on the main Highway southbound. At the opposite end of the loop, right off the highway, we jumped out to take a look at Cape Foulweather
Cape Foulweather was named in 1778 by Capt James Cook after his running battle with a ferocious Pacific storm that frustrated his efforts to find harbor along the central coast.
The sign says that it is not unusual to experience 100 mph winds at the Cape.
We drove back down to Newport, across the Yaquina Bay Bridge and over to The Oregon Coast Aquarium. It was a nice aquarium, but I felt alittle let down after going through it. It was nice, but certainly doesn't rival the likes of Seaworld! It has two tunnels you can walk through where there are fish of varying types and some sharks swimming over head, at the sides, and under foot. There is a part that has seals and sea lions, sea otters, an octopus, and an aviary. There is also a wave that crashes in. There are sections for coastal water inhabitants, Rocky shore inhabitants, Sandy shore inhabitants and "the enchanted seas". Now I liked the enchanted seas because it had alot of sea horses... which I like! One of those areas also had a open tank where people could touch sea creatures like starfish.
Starfish and Sea Anemone
Passages Of The Deep
Some more fish
Next stop was on the north end of Newport, the Yaquina Bay Light Station. This is the second oldest standing lighthouse structure on the Oregon coast. In service only from 1871 to 1874 before the Yaquina Head Lighthouse was commissioned. It is a 40 ft tower with decorative light that rises from a Cape Cod style house; one of the few Pacific Coast lighthouses built with the light keeper's living quarters in the same building as the tower. It is reported to be haunted by a legendary ghost.
continue the journey with us!
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